Crate Training of Chinese Shar-Pei
I can hear the gnashing of teeth out there now! A crate? Yes, I firmly believe in crate training for any dog, and puppyhood is the perfect time to teach them (and you) that this is a necessary item. It is not evil. If introduced in the proper way, the crate becomes the puppy’s special place. The dog in the wild is a “den animal,” preferring to rest and sleep in a dark, quiet place protected from intruders. Although your dog will not live in the wild, there are times when being confined to a crate is for her own safety, much as you and your loved ones are “harnessed” to your seat belts in a car.
There will most likely be times when your dog will have to be crated whether you or she likes it or not. Veterinarians have no choice but to crate animals, and your dog will be ahead of the game if she is accustomed to a crate. The added stress of emotional upset is not needed for a sick animal. If you travel, most hotels will insist (and rightfully so) that your dog be confined to a crate while you are not in your room.
Most likely, your breeder has already introduced your puppy to a crate, but if not, bring the crate home and set it up with comfortable bedding and one or more safe chew toys. Place the crate in a room where the family members will be so that she will not feel isolated¡ªremember, these are social creatures. Do not use newspapers in the bottom of the crate, as she has probably been trained to use them for housebreaking purposes. Do not introduce her to the crate right away, but allow her to investigate. She may voluntarily choose this as her quiet place, especially if she is already familiar with a crate.
Although Chinese Shar-Pei puppies are easily housebroken, a crate makes it just that much easier. A dog will not soil the area to which she is confined if she can possibly help it. However, don’t expect miracles, and don’t expect an eight- to ten-week-old puppy to go more than a few hours without having to relieve herself.
Before putting your puppy in the crate, remove her collar to keep it from getting entangled. Throw a favorite treat into the crate, and if the puppy follows it, close the door. If not, gently place the puppy inside with the treat, tell her she’s a “good girl,” and close the door.
You can walk just outside the room. If the puppy whines, barks or cries, walk back into the room and shout, “No!” After several attempts at getting your attention, she should settle down and be quiet. Never let a puppy out while she is voicing her objection. This will only reinforce the behavior¡ªthat’s not the response you want. After she has been quiet for a few minutes, take the puppy out of the crate and immediately praise her and take her outside so that she can relieve herself. Once she has, praise her again, take her back in the house and allow her some time outside the crate.
Repeat this process several times a day, with playtime after each session. Consistency is the key to helping her accept the crate after a few tries. Never use the crate for punishment. She may voluntarily seek it out if she is being reprimanded; at that point, it has become HER place, her haven from your disapproval. Please remember that a puppy should not be confined for long periods; this will create undesired effects and is certainly not the proper use of a crate.
There are many kinds and sizes of crates available. Choose one that will accommodate your puppy into adulthood. It should be at least twenty-four inches tall. Those made of wire provide the best air circulation (the enclosed plastic models can become very hot) and come in collapsible suitcase form for easy transfer to your car.